Well actually I suppose you could cut away a bit of the right wall of the bridge, but that seems so drastic. The only way to do that is to weld a finger extension to the existing one (see photo 3). You want the empty to eject sooner and the only thing you can do is to extend the ejector. Okay so now it seems to be ejecting well but we find that sometimes the case hits the right side of the bridge and bounces back atop the next cartridge. Even though the head of the bolt is pretty solid here, due to the design of the ejector it will only go so deep anyway. Grab the Dremel again with the cutoff blade and very gently deepen the slot just a tad. The slot through the left lug might not be deep enough to reliably catch enough of the rim to kick it out. One is again because of the small case diameter. Hopefully there wasn't a problem and now we're looking at the ejector. Possibly grind a bit off the little keeper lip riding in the radial slot around the head of the bolt, or MiG or TiG a bit of metal to the claw. If there is a problem you can try different extractors. If no problem then great, on to the ejector. The claw on the extractor MIGHT not be long enough to get a grip on the smaller OD of the RS case rim. Now, there are three other places you might have a problem and these have to do with the ejector and the extractor and the size of the case. I suppose you could use some type of epoxy also. No problem with spontaneous escape of your loaded hoard of ammo. The brass thing you see (photo 3) is a brass thing I soldered to the side of the steel curb, ridge, or rail or whatever you call the dealie on the follower that biases the cartridge cases to the right. Without modification, when you opened the bolt all your cartridges might just all come spewing out in a group. That is the steel one is designed to handle a fatter cartridge then the 7.62 RS (Rooski Shortski). The only other issue I had was with my more pleasing (to me) steel follower, and one you won't have if you stick with the plastic one. I drilled and countersunk a hole through the rear of the magazine box and ran a wood screw through it into the nylon block. It would slip forward and tie up the follower. The only problem is that there is nothing to retain it under recoil. The magazine blocker is a simple piece of white nylon that is correctly tapered on the top to fit correctly into the bottom of the action, between the rails. The magazine has a quick release floorplate so if you open it all the cartridges AND the spring and follower fall out. I mangled the top coil of the spring over and wrapped it around a screw in the hole and tightened it down. I used a small scrap of steel which I drilled and taped 10-32 and zapped it on the underside of the follower. I used a spare follower and cut the back end off to the correct length.
Did they work? Yes they did but the shiney black plastic just wasn't right. Not the common flat folded leaf as Mauser used. The spring was a long oval coil as you'd find in such a mag. The plastic follower and spring appeared as if they'd come out of a AK47 magazine. I stoned the face of the lug until it cleared. It breeched up so tight that the face of the left locking lug rubbed on the raised metal of this stamping. On the breechface they'd stamped it in 1/16" tall numbers, "7.62x39". The barrel was fully chambered and I just screwed it on. It consisted of the barrel, a plastic follower and spring and a basicly shaped magazine blocker for $98. The 'Kit' for this conversion came from GPC. Engine turning the bolt really improves the appearance IMO. It's not just quite right but it works so I left it alone. My first attempt at adding an aftermarket bolt handle. It's a small ring and basicly a 1893, except as you can see in photo 3 it has no thumbcut through the receiver wall. Above is a 7.62x39 I built on a FN produced 1894 Brazilian action.
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